© 2015-2017 by RoxieTHECrazyGoatLady.com. 

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Common Questions

1.    
What do I feed them and how much?
A goat specific pellet is best (not sheep and goat)We feed a combination of goat pellets (not sheep and goat) About ½ to a cup (as they get older you can feed a little more) of feed morning and night.
Any goat specific mineral free choice (one high in copper is best)
Horse quality happy free choice. The purpose of the hay is to keep their rumen working well.  Alfalfa is not a grass hay. They can have alfalfa but also need grass hay.
Baking soda out free choice for stomach issues that could arise.

2.    Shots
You can do an annual CD&T shot if you like. If your baby was disbudded with me he/she will have had a Tetanus Antitoxin shot.
     
3.    
Worming
You can organic worm (a time commitment). Needs to be done weekly. Fiascofarms.com is where I order my supply and it is a great website for learning.
Chemical wormers – Only worm when necessary (check bottom eyelids – should be nice and pink). Do not chemical worm on a regular basis, as they will build up an immunity to it. If you suspect worms, it is best to get a fecal test so you can give the correct wormer for your problem.  Check with your local vet or feed store to see which wormer is working in your area.
   
4.    
Trimming hooves
No set schedule.  Just check them every 3 months or so and just trim the edges that are turning under.  You can buy hoof trimmers at Tractor Supply.

5.    What supplies should I have on hand

  • Probiotics paste (TSC)

  • B12 paste (TSC)

  • Baking Soda

  • Specto Guard (TSC) for diarrhea cases (says it is for pigs and it is a red and white box)


6.    How old before you can breed them?
I breed at one year old unless they are too small. They come in heat about every 3 weeks.
5 months gestation period

7.    
Fixed boys (Wethers) ** See more details below **
Fixed boys make GREAT pets.  An unfixed boy (billy goat) is not fun to keep and can be aggressive if there are not enough girls for him.  Separate sheet attached on what to feed wethers.  They should not be “fixed” until they are about 3-4 months old to avoid urinary calculi (kidney stones).

8.    
How long do they live?
They can live a long time (10-15 years) depending on their care and how much they are bred, etc. I have several in retirement.

9.    
Can they be potty trained or house trained?
People say they have.  I have had babies in my house with diapers on.  Keep in mind these are not dogs.  They are farm animals, however some of my customers say they have house trained them. I say go for it if you are up for a goat on your kitchen table. :-)

10.    
Can I get a boy and a girl and breed them?
Again these are not dogs. Let me try to explain why getting one breeding pair is not a fun experience. First of all goats are herd animals and need to have a friend with them all the time(not visiting some time or in a pen next to it) . Secondly the females come in heat every 3 weeks. Thirdly an unfixed male is nasty smelling and acting.They tend to be loud, pee on themselves and others and do other nasty things as well. So you get one of each, have to separate them at 3 months because a female should not breed until she is a year old and now you have two lonely goats and a very frustrated billy that will probably get aggressive with you because he has a lot of unused testosterone. I have approximately 75 females and 3 billy’s. If you want the baby experience get two females and have them bred.

11.    
Housing and bedding
They need to be out of the weather.  They hate to be wet.  We use pine shavings from Tractor Supply for bedding.  As long as they can be out of the wind and rain they will be fine. Here at my place they are in a climate controlled barn but not necessary.

12.    
Scurs
These are the little tiny part of a horn that can come out after a disbudding.No way to know if this will happen. With boys (because of testosterone) they are common. Sometimes they are no big deal and sometimes they have to be filed down. I cannot predict if this will happen nor be responsible for this. It comes with the territory of disbudding males.
    
13.    
Sickness
It is important to stress that if you suspect your baby is sick please either reach out to me (anytime) or your vet quickly. I treat them for coccidiosis and lice/mites as a precautionary before they are sold.  I try to make your purchase problem free, as best I can.  Again, if you think they are sick do not wait too long to reach out to me or your vet.  Time is important.

Call me anytime. I am here to help
Roxie 214-675-3089 

Refund or Replacement Policy

We are dealing with live merchandise.  There is no way I can foresee all health issues.  I try my best to ONLY sell what I feel is a 100% healthy animal.  I try to treat for every problem that COULD POSSIBLY happen before you take your baby home.  In the event your baby gets sick, I ask that you do not wait to contact me or your vet.  That is why my number is available to you AND my vet takes my calls 23/7.  It upsets me, as much as you, when something happens to one of my babies.  This happens very seldom, but I want you as the customer to know I do the best I can to have healthy babies/happy customers.  I always want to be fair, and hope that you will understand my position as well.  Once the animal is out of my hands it is very difficult for me to assume responsibility for what happens.  Let me repeat, I have had very few issues, but when we do it is a BIG DEAL TO ME.

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Wethers (Fixed Boys)

1.    My vet has recommended that little boys are not fixed until at least 3 months old so that their uretha can be fully developed.  This helps in preventing Urinary Calculi (what we would call kidney stones)

2.    My vet also recommends castrating over banding.  He says castrating is less likely to have a chance of tetanus.

3.    When they are fixed, of course it is necessary to give them a minimum of a tetanus shot, but advisable to get the CDT and the booster.

4.    Diet: Grass hay free choice.  ½ cup alfalfa pellets and ¼ cup of 14% pellet feed (as they get older you can increase this to 1 cup of alfalfa and ½ cut of pellets) and quality loose minerals. Ammonia chloride sprinkled on their food is also a preventative.  Once they are 10-11 months you can begin weening off of the pellets and continue to offer hay and alfalfa.  

All of this advice above is a suggestion.  All wethers DO NOT have these issues, and your vet may recommend something different.  Follow what advice you feel comfortable with.  These are merely suggestions, and passed on advice from my vet.